Talking to Steve Johnson, the gentle and clever chef at stylish-but-casual Rendezvous in Central Square, Cambridge, I’m impressed by his devotion to community, to local sourcing, and to good old-fashioned home economics.
Lucky for all of us, chefs are busy turning the Cambridge neighborhood designated as “Area 4” into a Mecca of good eating. Area Four audaciously takes the neighborhood’s name as its identity, and does the moniker proud.
I like my gazpachos pureed but still with some bite, with quite a lot of heat and tang. I’ve discovered that the cucumbers (especially the regular ones) can be pureed quite small but retain some crunch (or, at that size, a pleasing “graininess”), and that, by substituting tomatillos for some of the tomatoes I get an interesting fruity tartness and avoid having to deal with the dreaded red beast in the raw (see my previous neurotic confession).
Sushi. Wood-grilled steaks. Chinese comfort-food standards. Dim sum. Shabu-shabu. Any one of these could be a restaurant concept all on its own. How do you combine them into a cohesive whole? Simple. By doing them all excellently.
I don’t know when it began. I don’t know how it began, considering I have a primal aversion to raw tomatoes. (Sauce is fine; a bloody mary makes me happy; but keep that beefsteak away from my burger, please.) But somehow I’ve become obsessed with the emperor of summer soups, chilled gazpacho.
I’m munching on some really good ciabatta-style rolls, sipping my perfect Americano cocktail, awaiting the Pea Soup with Gooseberry Crème Fraîche and the Really Good Lobster Soup at City Table in the Lenox Hotel, one of the grand dames of old Boston.
Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston is serious about their oysters. The first thing you’ll notice is the oyster bar proper, a sparkling mountain of ice studded with twelve to eighteen different varieties of oysters and subtly highlighted by a grid of cone-shaped lights.